It's Raining Cats

The last few days have been absolutely stellar for sightings at my workplace (Umkumbe Safari Lodge in the world famous Sabi Sands Game Reserve) and our guests have enjoyed every moment on drive!!!

To begin, a few days ago, I awoke to the call of a male leopard. Ever the optimist, I thought this as a sign of a good drive ahead. On this particular morning, the sun struggled to peak through the haze but the animals did not disappoint. Not long into the drive, squealing and trumpeting alerted Cameron to the presence of elephants. Through the thicket, they emerged to greet him, as the large breeding herd slowly moved northward to the Sand River.

Jason and I had other plans in mind. Having had our guests with us for a few days now, we were on the hunt for cats or as I like to say, anything with teeth & claws. General game was out in full force on the clearings and in the thickets, and included nyala, kudu, zebra, impala, warthogs, all of which were too relaxed for predators to be around. With everyone on the vehicle in agreement, we carried on with our quest. After an endless search with no spoors to be seen, the alarm calls of the local birds directed my attention to an area I seldom travel. I followed my instinct, and in no time, found an impala ram up high in a Marula tree. A fresh kill could only mean my favourite leopard Nottens was around and likely at her den site on her way back to feed. All eyes and binoculars proceeded to scan the horizon for any slight movement in the grass. Finally, out of the long grass, she emerged in full view, gaze solidly fixed on her prize. Nottens was here!!! I can’t tell you how elated I was. Grinning from ear to ear, my guests and I enjoyed this magical African moment.

 The last five days, have been just as spectacular with Nottens cub playing, gnawing branches, pouncing, climbing trees, suckling, and bonding with his mother. The photographs have been too numerous to post. Not only have we been spoiled with Nottens & her cub, but also a fantastic view of Mashlatine (a large male leopard), two large breeding herds of elephants, a crash of rhinos, journeys of giraffe, a medley of nocturnal creatures, etc… For all of us here at Umkumbe, days like these are like Christmas morning with spotted gift wrap.

To make things even more spectacular, yesterday morning’s drive proved to be one for the record books with 3 different cat species spotted – no pun intended. Not quite finished with our morning coffee, the call over the radio mentioning lions nearby, had all of us guides scrambling to retrieve our guests and coral them all onto the vehicles. We didn’t have far to go, as the Charleston pride were within eyesight of our main entrance. We proceeded to strategically place our vehicles for the best views as this pride readied for the hunt. Adrenaline pumping, hearts racing, we watched all three members stalk, chase and miss our daggha boys (old male buffalos) who were, by the way, quick to have them all running in the other direction. To top it all off, a young female leopard came strolling down the main road and on the way back to the lodge, we were rewarded with a stellar cheetah sighting. All this to say, if that action packed, pre-breakfast excitement didn’t get your heart pumping, you should consider staying home. 

Bush Solitude...So To Speak

Another semester has come to an end. Although exhausted to the core of my being, I am also very proud of my accomplishments thus far.  A few of those to highlights included my first ele approach as driver (a beautiful, relaxed bull), as well as 10 sec timing (cut-off is 15 sec), blind folded rifle loading and cocking exercise during a dry rifle run. The latter is a run-up to my rifle assessment in 5 week’s time. Needless to say, I still have much to learn about the African bush and feel I may never fully understand all of her mysteries. I am, however, as much in love with Africa as I ever was, even if at times, I am frustrated at my inexperience.

This week saw many rivers wash away fencing, damage roads and bridges, widen drainage lines and dams, and even make town inaccessible for a time. With an accumulated 283mm of rain in two days and more forecasted for the week ahead, it was a blessing to be able to leave campus and head on off days.

I am currently based in a small and intimate safari camp, away from all the bustle and hurries of the world. In fact, I have the entire camp to myself for the remainder of my time here. It is a small luxury when continuously surrounded by students on our bush campus. There are no queues for the showers, the excellent cuisine is of my own making and my very spacious room is mine alone.  

Apart from the human solitude, this little camp is inhabited by a variety of small creatures such as the Dwarf Day Geckos, Striped Skinks and Bushveld Lizards that bound across the beams in the open air, boma style kitchen. The sandy area between my room and boma, is a veritable “tableau” of tracks of my most recent night visitors including Kudu (large antelope), Leopard and Vervet monkeys. The loo and outdoor shower stall are no exception when it comes to nature’s subtle signs. A Western Olive Toad has wedged itself in the crook of a cut tree branch, an arm’s length away from my toilet, while a Golden Orb-Web spider has made itself a grand home above the shower head. Nature finds a niche even in the oddest places.

There is a constant cacophony in the bush. In fact, my first morning lie in, I awoke to the calls of the Woodland Kingfisher, the Burchell’s Coucal (which can only signify rain on the horizon) and a host of other sunrise greeters. At the height of the noon day sun, the air thick with humidity, the bush quietens, if only a little. As I’ve stated before, Africa delivers a pleasant assault to the senses. Ironically, as I typed away on my laptop, I was made more aware of my surroundings by the incessant alarm calls of the tree squirrels, the snapping of twigs in the underbrush, and will admit to being briefly startled when a Grey Headed Bush Shrike (bird) landed at my feet to feast on its captured grasshopper. An explorer at heart I may be, but I have also gained a healthy respect for the African bush.  

Part of exploring is knowing when to call it a day. My end of day adventure included a hop, skip and a jump across the seasonal river to a game hide where giraffe, zebra, impala, warthog, and francolin wandered across my field of vision heading to the area waterhole. What a feeling to gaze on wildlife whilst they are unaware of your presence. The day light dwindling, I finally pulled myself away from my reverie to make my way back to camp, stopping only to gaze at tracks along the river’s edge and collect a few more rock samples…after all, once an explorer, always an explorer.

PS as of writing this blog, my ipod took diving lessons in the wash, my head torch's parachute didn't deploy, therefore injuring it ever so slightly and my memory card through a tantrum meaning no photos due to the required formatting of said card.

Here At Last

I have promised over and again that I would blog about my time here in Africa. Unfortunately, free time is a valuable commodity out here in the bush. It is hard to believe that 2 months have already passed and I am nearing the end of my 2^nd semester with Bushwise. I have learnt much about myself and this amazing natural environment I am surrounded by daily.

First off, as I know everyone is waiting to hear about my driving abilities, I will admit to having stuck the vehicle only once and as it would happen, on my very first drive.  Crashing through golden orb webs and dodging thorns, I misjudged my tire alignment and wedged one side of the vehicle in a deep crevice. On a good note, it was a fantastic learning platform for the other students in my vehicle for “what not to do”, and as it would happen, a great photo op for my trainer. It took two attempts to free the vehicle due in part to my rather poor attempt to drive through it the 2^nd time around. Shame!

Driving is progressing and a few weeks ago, I drove into my first lion sighting. The pride of 6 lions lazed about with only one lioness slightly annoyed at my approach. Thanks to my ethology lecture, I recognized the fact that I had breached this big cat’s comfort zone and quickly gave her the space she needed. It is an amazing feeling to see the classroom lectures coming to fruition out on our game drives.

Trust me when I say, there have been many moments “to write home about”. I am not one to shy away from Africa’s creepy crawlies but snakes are another matter, especially one’s that fall out of trees. Imagine my reaction when a Spotted Bushveld Snake (non-venomous), fell next to my study group, coiled and reared up. I have never jumped up on my seat so fast in my life. The reptile identification lecture went out the window as I shrieked “snake”……like a little girl. ;)

Apart from the snakes, scorpions and spiders (most of you will thank me for not writing about these), the wildlife encounters have been absolutely stellar. Imagine elephants emerging from thick brush, silhouetted by moonlight, silently walking past your vehicle, an arm’s length away, the air thick with their musky scent.

The haunting call of hyena in the early morning hours, the roar of lions in the late evening, the final calls of an impala in a cheetah death grip…..it is a veritable overload to the senses. I am continuously amazed by my surroundings! Even more so, my ability to distinguish the sights, sounds and smells I am bombarded with.

Lastly, I can’t finish off this blog without writing about my accomplishments. Rifle handling began last week with our SASSETA qualifications. I can safely say that I am not a bad shot considering the scope was so far off that even our trainer could not hit the target. Makes me wonder about my eyesight (rest assured I passed two eye tests at the driving center). As for this week, a week long session in tracking culminated in my finally qualifying for my level 2 tracker. After much doubting on my part, over analysing tracks & spoor on practical, I was elated with the final results. I must now learn to have more faith in my abilities, after all, this is a dream of my own making.