Doom - sday

A follow up to my last blog...

As I stated earlier, sometimes it is better to just walk away. Yesterday afternoon, I returned to the office to find Douglas surrounded by 15 dying bees. Interestingly enough, Douglas is one of few people in camp who refuses to use the insecticide yet the familiar smell of Doom was most apparent. He sheepishly admitted to succumbing to its use after all, the bees were trying to make his office their new hive. Several minutes later, one could distinctively hear the sound of swarm of bees fast approaching. As I looked up into the sky, they were headed our way. In my mind, it was a retaliation against Douglas for the "murder" of  their extended family. 

Benjamin, our office manager, and I headed for cover while Douglas hurriedly zipped the tent fly shut. Hundreds of bees surrounded the office tent and all any of us on the outside could do was laugh at Douglas' predicament. "If the bees are still there by dinner, can I have your dessert?" was all I could manage to say between chuckles. The bees did finally settle down on a branch next to the office tent. As of this morning, they are still waiting presumably for another chance to either infiltrate the office or ambush Douglas.  

Strange Bedfellows

I have forged many friendships since my arrival in camp however none have been more intimate than with Africa's smallest creatures. Although I do have a can of "Doom" (local insect spray) at my disposal and within easy reach, I can honestly say I have yet to use it though the urge to do so has not always escaped me. With fierce determination, I have driven several creatures out of my tent only to find that others have taken up residence. It all comes down to mutual respect. Case in point...a long legged spider had taken up residence between my sink and the soap dish. It would occasionally wander onto my bar of soap and as long as I did not require use of the soap I was more than happy to let it reside there as it also kept an eye out for other undesirables. Then of course there was the large bow wheevil (I think?) that strategically positioned itself in the middle of the bathroom floor between the entrance and the flush. Naturally, I tiptoed around it. No need to look under the bed as that is where you would find the crickets chirping you to sleep.  Now this isn't to say there haven't been some exceptions to the use of an insecticide. Although not having handled the Doom myself, I will say there have been moments I have readily encouraged and cheered others on to do so - such as yesterday. The camp office had become a magnet for stinging insects. With stealth like manoeuvrability, giant wasps (anything bigger than my thumb is giant), were using our heads for target practice. We would chase them out of the office, zipper the tent fly only to discover we had sealed ourselves in with at least one enemy operative. The final answer; unleash the Doom!  At times this strategy worked but generally, it was just plain safer to wait them out. Unless they were siyafu (biting ants), in which case I would recommend a complete detour of the area. Then of course there is the inevitable EEEEEKKKK moments. You scurry one way and they, another...some of the time. This evening, while I lay awake in bed, a moth fell on my face. No need to panic you might say as it is only a harmless winged creature but in the dark, EVERYTHING is amplified. It felt and sounded so much bigger in the pitch blackness. I swatted at the air until I was sure that not even a dust spec could find its way onto my pillow which is also why I am now journalling with a flashlight at an unreasonable hour. With all the good, the bad and the ugly, I have discovered that these creatures are as fascinating as they look and sound. Now about the snakes...

New Experiences

Where to begin.... 

There is so much that has happened, that I have begun to loose track of my days here. As most of you are aware, I have been given a new name. I cannot deny that when the Maasai call out "Naserian", I beam with pride as I know it is my name and in my heart I am humbled by its meaning, "peaceful one". What more could I ever hope for in this experience than what I have already been given. 

Every day brings with it a new adventure. No nights, no mornings, and certainly, no days are the same. As I write, a particular incident comes to mind. I was in a search of a bucket when I stumbled into the staff kitchen, not to be mistaken with the client kitchen which I frequent often. As it was nearing 5 o'clock, several Maasai had begun to queue at the counter with cups in hands. My curiosity must have been written all over my face for Douglas, my office mate, gave me his cup and suggested I try the "ugi" or maize porridge. A little apprehensive at first, as I was not sure what to expect, I decided to give it a try. What I tasted was not only hot, thick and sweet but oh! soooo good that I drank every last drop. The Maasai thought my routine of cooling down my ugi by blowing on it quite comical. With hand gestures and "ummm" sounds, they knew I was enjoying my experience. Thus began my first lessons in Ma.  

This same day was also a lesson in speed and endurance. As my taste buds were being treated to a savoury experience, Greg and Libby were being dazzled by a stunning double rainbow over the African landscape. Naturally, Greg called my mobile to request a photo. While I was racing to my tent to retrieve my camera gear, I temporarily stopped to gaze upwards and that's when the siyafu (nasty little ants) started running up my legs. These ants are merciless. Their crawling causes your legs to tingle which creates a chain reaction of your itching and their biting. What had begun as a race to fetch my camera ended in a mad dash to my tent to strip off my pants. Of course the story didn't end there. The staff eventually gathered on the front lawn of the main tent for their photo op under the aforementioned rainbow. In the meantime, I had returned with new pants, set up my tripod and camera and had begun to click away. And that's when "they" struck. If you guessed ants, you are right! During the photo shoot, another colony of siyafu had run up the legs of the staff. So much swatting and beating of pants by staff may have caused a slight sympathetic chuckle behind the lens. 

Endless Possibilites

Day 8

My mornings typically begin with the sound of the askari (night watchmen) collecting the evening lanterns.  This is my unofficial 5:30 am wake-up call.  My watch is set to go off in another hour but there is no sense in waiting for it.  As they say, “the early bird gets the worm”.  My cold shower becomes a distant memory as I step out in the early morning light and let the sun’s rays envelope me in their warmth. I make my way to the kitchen to fix myself a cup of coffee before the kitchen staff arrives for their work day.   

The days go by at a perfect pace, neither rushed nor dull. I find myself enjoying the quiet and solitude. Each day provides me with a new challenge and with that, the little hamster in my head begins to turn its wheel. You can contemplate quite a lot out here in the middle of a perfect nowhere. With warm cup of coffee in hand, I often sit out on the veranda and let my mind wander.  When I first arrived, someone said that I would eventually suffer from “camp fever” but I find that to be quite the opposite.

After a hearty breakfast, made to order, I begin another work day.  My office in camp affords a view of the comings and goings of the staff, and as I type away on the computer, a lovely breeze permeates the space. I am not inundated with the sounds of telephones, intercoms, fax machines and copiers. In fact, the only sounds I hear throughout my day are of people and wildlife (and the occasional cell phone). 

The weather in Olderikesi Conservancy is as varied as the day’s activities. On most mornings we are blessed with the sun and a warm breeze.  By mid-afternoon, we are generally greeted with a torrential downpour and on a rare occasion, as was the case yesterday, hail.  Unfortunately, those little white pebbles on the ground only helped to bring to mind the snow that will eventually welcome me on my return journey to Canada.  I shudder at the thought.  

The remainder of my work day is only interrupted by wonderfully varied meals and of course, the traditional afternoon tea.  There isn't an aspect in my day I don’t look forward to…except for one.  Greg or Libby begin all of our meals with a trivia question. I for one do not claim to be a genius, and although I have only had one correct guess since my arrival, I prefer to be the “stumper” than the stumped.  Perhaps today will be my lucky day, after all I am in Africa and as far as I can tell, anything is possible. 

The African Queen

Day 3

If given the choice, I would refer to myself as the African Queen. However, seeing as Greg is my boss, I have been appropriately dubbed the "newbie". Perhaps my moments of absent mindedness upon on first meeting have given him justification but let's not delve into these. 

I may be the new kid in camp, but in the last few days, I have come to realize that even throughout my unpredictable work day, there are moments, even at Muthaiga Camp, that can draw my attention away to leave a permanent impression on my mind such as...

1. the glow of the kerosene lanterns as they silhouette the "Askari" against a darkening sky while they go about delivering the lanterns throughout camp;

2. the crunching of zebra hooves on the quartz paths as they meander through camp in the early morning hours;

3. the sweet sound of Maasai adornements as metal chimes against metal;

4. the sound of the rolling thunder across the savannah heralding an impending storm followed by a spectacular light show;

5. the way the early morning sun highlights the yellow acacia trees;

6. the way a cold shower rejuvenates me in the morning and would in reality take anyone's breath away;

7. the nightly hot water bottle tucked into the sheets that is still warm enough in the morning to work wonders after #6

I appreciate the complexities of camp affairs but at the same time, it is the simplicity of camp life that has reaffirmed my decision to have travelled to Africa once again. Tomorrow's market day will reveal whether or net I have romanticized my placement.

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Day 4

I have been anticipating this day since my arrival. With crates, bags, check-lists and money in hand, James (my trusty driver) and I made our way through a maze of mud holes to the Oloolaimutia market. Everywhere I looked, I was greeted by a sea of smiling faces. Maasai men and women, draped in an array of vibrant fabrics and adorned with their finest bead work  made me seem out of place in my dusty khakis. My fascination with these people was also equalled by the amount of stares I received. However dressed, I still felt as though I belonged. After a few hours of shopping and a quick stop for some sodas, James and I returned to camp. The breeze we created as we raced home was a much welcomed relief from the midday sun. 

Crazy James, as he likes to be called, decided that as we had not seen wildlife on the way to the market, that the herds of cattle would become our zebra, the sheep our impala and the goats our gazelles. Luckily, on the return journey, we were rewarded with actual zebra, impala and gazelle sightings. 

Upon our return to Muthaiga camp, we proceeded to unload our stock, and although sweaty and stinky, James declared that I looked to be the happiest person in camp today. In that moment, I knew that I could rival Hepburn's role as the African Queen.

Muthaiga Camp

Day 1

After a hearty breakfast, Greg, Libby and I departed from the Country Lodge to for the long journey to camp. Driving through Nairobi brought back many memories of my past travels here including the morning traffic, the blooming Jacaranda trees and of course the scent of diesel and the coating of dust. 

The days events unfolded as predicted with a few stops to restock camp that included the butcher shop, the vegetable market, the bank, etc. .. You wouldn't believe the road improvements in the last 3 years. An actual paved road led us most of the way and the story wouldn't be complete without the inevitable flat tire. Of course we took it all in stride...that is the girls went into the shop while the boys changed the tire. Thank goodness we had had lunch...need strength to shop after all.

When we did make it to camp, we were greeted with warm smiles and cold drinks. The remainder of the evening began with pizzettas and wine around the fire followed by an exquisite four course dinner. I may have to include an exercise regime into my daily schedule if that is any indication of the quality and quantity of food I have already digested in my short time here. 

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Day 2

"Did you sleep well?" seems to be the proverbial question to be asked in the morning. How can I respond. Although fascinated by the night calls of the local wildlife, I can't say it was conducive to my beauty sleep (biased of course). If I were a conspiracy theorist, I would say the wildlife was studying my nocturnal habits. That is, I would begin to fall asleep when the monkeys would serenade me with screeches, the resident leopard would pant (that's right, his home is next to my tent - lucky #7), and well you guessed...the rest of the wildlife would join in. 

Although a wee bit tired this morning, one can't blame me when one is gazing at a watch every hour trying to gage how many hours of sleep is left before breakfast. The remedy... a cold shower (not by choice) to rejuvenate the senses...something I would have rather had a cup of coffee do.

If a cold shower wasn't enough, I was greeted by a booming afternoon thunderstorm. As we all dined in the dining room, I kept trying to remember if I had closed my tent flaps soon to discover that although no water had come into the main tent, the bathroom on the other hand, well let's just say water had pooled on the bathroom floor and shelves, inside the sinks, glasses, soap dish and of course the Kleenex box. A little soggy but nothing a towel couldn't dry up, although the Kleenex box may be beyond rescue. 

Today is nearing an end and it's already time to eat again...until next time.